Dorlet is a French company, designing and manufacturing metal trims since 1928. A completely family-financed business, Dorlet has been innovating for 90 years whilst respecting the legacy of each generation. Founded in Paris in 1928 by Charles Dorlet, Dorlet has been run since by Jean-Baptiste and Claude Greuzat, Jean-François Greuzat and Thibault Greuzat.
Initially specializing in the manufacture of hats and the sale of millinery supplies, in 1946 DORLET changed to selling lining materials for clothing, then in 1958, in a roundabout way, to fabric bags and waistbands, and finally in 1967 to sewing threads. Dorlet moved to Meaux in 1970 and gradually started to include metal products in its catalogue, that became its core activity in 80’s.
The designs for this capsule collection come form workwear tradition; where garments are made to last long. Garments that could be worn everyday and that will age beautifully. Thanks to Dorlets innovations, the entire garment can be recycled because of their reusable trims.
WORKWEAR, FUNCTION & STRENGTH
The jacket is a relaxed worker jacket, with traditional details such as reinforced pocket bags with lining in the bottom half of the pockets. The fabric is 100% organic cotton in a deep ochre colour with matching yarns.
This pants are made with wide legs for extra comfort and movement, but still fits mid waist for a lean look. The details are inspired form workwear with extra details for tools and added strength. The fabric is 100% organic cotton in an ecru white colour, the yarns are made of recycled polyester and organic cotton in matching white.
The shirt is made in a regular fit, that fits both in an office environment and on the workfields. The fabric is 100% cotton, in a mid weight chambray in dark indigo. The yarns are made of recycled polyester and organic cotton in matching dark navy.
The silhouettes and shapes are inspired from vintage garments, but after drafting the new patterns the fit is more suitable for todays lifestyle and they are more tailored to the modern man.
Each fit is created to match the Dorlet trims, so the function of the innovative trims match the fit and the designs.
PATTERNS & 1ST SAMPLES
The pattern is drafted in sample size, size M for the shirt and the jacket, and size 31x32 for the worker pant. All details are placed in the correct place and can be traced back from the pattern drawings..
Each garment is a one-off and created for Dorlet to be displayed on fairs and presentations to show their trims. The collection has been displayed at the Kingins show fair in Amsterdam twice.
CUTTING & SEWING THE COLLECTION
After all shapes, details and construction were signed off, the actual collection was cut and sewn in the AMK atelier. All pattern pieces are carefully cut out by hand and stitched together. The ironing and finishing is done in the atelier, with extra care for the special attachment of the trims.
The AMK atelier labels are created with wood stamps with plant-based ink. The stamping by hand makes each label unique.
REMOVE - REUSE - RECYCLE
DETACHABLE DONUT BUTTONS
For the jacket we used a 22mm golden donut button. This has a special construction with buttonholes on both sides of the placket, so the button easily can be taken off and reused or recycled.
SCREWED ON SHANK BUTTONS
The shank buttons for the fly and waist on the pants are matt black and they are attached by screwing them on to the garments.
SCREWED ON SHANK RIVETS
The rivets are attached by screwing as well, and the front "nipple" of the rivet has a profile which is used when screwing it on to the garments.
SHIRT BUTTONS FROM FRENCH WOOD
The buttons used for the shirt are made of wood. The threes are grown in France. They have a beautiful natural shade and each button is unique. The buttons are also biodegradable because of its natural components, which means that the whole garments can be recycled